Built-in wardrobe: useful tips
Work on the planning of the internal space of the built-in wardrobes is often compared with the order of the kitchen unit. Yes, the measurer will help you with the engineering solution and offer design options. But he will not be able to decide for you, it is more convenient for you to have two hangers and shelves, or to prefer them to one bar and basket.
In order for the built-in wardrobe to cause you not to sigh, but to delight, you need to think carefully about the internal layout: distribute departments and sections, plan shelves and hang them, drawers and organizers. At the same time we will find out how many swords, trousers and boots we have.
What size can a wardrobe be made of?
Of course, in the calculations you will proceed primarily from the dimensions of that room or part of the space (say, a corridor or a hallway), which you decided to take under the built-in cupboard. However, there are several significant aspects to consider.
The standard depth of the wardrobe with hinged doors is 60 cm. So much is needed,to easily fit the hangers with clothes on the usual longitudinal bar: for convenient location of the outer clothing, at least 55 cm is required, and lightweight - 5 cm less. If it is a cabinet with sliding doors, it is better to add another 10 cm - so much will "eat" the "coupe" design.
The minimum width of the cabinet is not regulated, but there is no point in making it less than 40 cm - otherwise the boxes with shoes will not fit. In a cabinet with a depth of less than 50 cm, it is necessary to replace the longitudinal bar with the end bar. Correctly calculate their number: an average of 8 hangers-hangers are placed on the end 40-centimeter bar.
Theoretically, the height of the built-in cabinet can be any. But there are nuances. If you order the most popular wardrobe with a chipboard frame, you will be limited to a maximum plate height of 278 cm. For typical apartments, this is usually sufficient. If you need a closet higher, it simply overbuilt mezzanine. The main section of the cabinet and the entresol are separated by a horizontal partition-ceiling, which serves as a connecting element.
The maximum height of sliding doors is 4 m: this is the length of the profiles in popular designs.But if you want doors made of chipboard above 278 cm, you will have to use decorative partitions. Or choose another, more expensive material.
The length of the cabinet can be anything. If a floor or ceiling is planned for it, then it is necessary to take into account the limited length (height) of the slab - the same 278 cm for chipboard. This obstacle is easily surmountable: the master puts a vertical wall and attaches the next slab to it - and so on to infinity. In addition, most often the closet can do with the floor and ceiling of the apartment: in this case their own structural elements are not used.
The maximum length of the guide for compartment doors is 4-5 m. They are not recommended to dock, since the joints are harder to wear on the joints. The alternative is the same wall-column, actually breaking your closet by two. It will still look like a monolithic - what's the difference?
In the case of compartment doors there are restrictions on the minimum cabinet length - 1 m. Doors (and there should be at least two) do not let out less than 50 cm wide, otherwise they will fall out of the rails.
And if, on the contrary, you want the door wider? However, experts do not advise making sliding doors wider than 120 cm - otherwise they will begin to destroy the roller system. The optimal width is 60-80 cm.
The most harmonious proportions of the height and width of the door are 1: 5. Facades of this size are most convenient to use and do not warp them.
Another important rule: the width of the door should be chosen for the width of the section. No matter how widely you open the doors, there are still “dead zones” in the closet, which are never open. If a drawer falls into such a zone, it simply will not slide out. The exception is the four-door cupboard: you can plan the doors in it so that two sections open at the center.
Swing doors are usually made 60 cm wide. A wider door will be too heavy and the hinges may not withstand it.
How to plan the interior of the cabinet?
Designers recommend before planning the cabinet to make a list of all the things that you will keep in it, and then add another 20% "on the growth of the wardrobe."
Decide what will lie on the shelf or in baskets (knitwear), and what to hang (pants, jackets). And how many things you have in each of the categories.
Decide on the price: the internal filling of the cabinet can be very diverse in cost. Therefore, in advance limit the budget in which you plan to meet.Rational is the amount that does not exceed 10% of the cost of the cabinet itself. But, ultimately, it's up to you.
Longitudinal and end rods
Clothes hanging on hangers will occupy the largest compartments. For women's clothing, we are planning a box with a height of 150-160 cm. If there are long men's coats or coats hanging in the closet, lay down a height of 175 cm.
Estimate at least approximately the number of items of clothing that will hang on the hangers. For each coat hanger, you can lay 5 cm - this will be the width of the compartment (and the length of the longitudinal rod).
If you have a narrow cabinet with end rods, lay 60 cm wide compartments for each one. The end hangers usually do a little - 2-3 pieces.
Sometimes it is worth making separate boxes with a barbell for short things: skirts, trousers, shirts and blouses. They require less height - 80-100 cm, which means they save space.
If men's trousers are hung without bending, take them 120 cm tall.
If you require a length of the longitudinal bar more than 120 cm, provide in the middle a vertical bar-support. It is placed between the upper and lower partitions and is connected to the horizontal bar with a special coupling.This is necessary so that the longitudinal bar does not bend under the weight of things. If heavy things are hanging on the shoulders - fur coats, coats, - the length of the bar without support should not exceed 100 cm.
Another important nuance: if the closet is not embedded in a niche, but has side walls, do not plan a compartment with a rod immediately behind the outer wall. Do it better than the usual horizontal shelves. Sliding doors, rolling back and forth, push the side wall, creating a shock load. Horizontal shelves, located close to the side plate, will connect it with the rest of the supporting structures of the cabinet. One rod will not provide such a strong ligament.
Elevator - a special device that allows you to lower and raise the bar (as in the photo). Such designs are quite expensive, but are indispensable in high cabinets, when you have to use a place under the ceiling. The elevator will lower the jackets and skirts directly into your hands, and then again remove the bar with things to an unattainable height.
Built-in wardrobes are ordered not only for clothes. On open shelves, you can store almost everything (except what you need to hang): linens and knitwear, books and utensils.For clothes, you can use long shelves (80-120 cm), and for heavy books and dishes the shelf length should not exceed 80 cm. The convenient distance between the shelves is at least 40 cm.
If you make a shelf longer than 80 cm, provide under it a vertical partition as an additional support. Otherwise, the shelf may bend during operation.
On the shelves mainly store a variety of knitwear - on the shoulders it can stretch. In addition, shelves are suitable for storing neatly folded jeans, bags, boxes, hats. So make more shelves - all will be useful.
In the upper part of the cabinet wide shelves are designed - for blankets, blankets and bed linen. In addition, there would be good to provide compartments for sports equipment. Think what exactly you will store there. Four pairs of roller skates? Tennis rocket? Yoga mat? It is better to measure the dimensions in advance. At this moment, you understand the advantage of a chess player over a bodybuilder.
In addition, at the very top they usually make a large long shelf for suitcases, bags and tourist equipment. Height - 45-50 cm.
How to make the shelves order?
From shallow shelves, clothing can slip, and on long ones it quickly turns into a shapeless pile. To prevent this from happening, make small shelves with a side or break a long rack into separate square cells: this way each stack of clothes will have its own cell. Maintain order becomes much easier.
Another way to organize the contents of the open shelves is to put everything in boxes.
Roll out shelves
Roll-out shelves are more convenient than fixed ones - they make it easy to detect and retrieve the necessary. Yes, and the distance between them may be less than between normal ones. True, convenience is not cheap. Roll-out shelves are meaningful only in the mode of austerity of space.
Drawers are also much more convenient than stationary counterparts - they make it easy to browse the contents. And besides, they save cabinet space: the height of a standard drawer is 20-25 cm, the shelves are 35-40 cm. The drawers protect the contents from dust better. They have one minus - they are expensive, so it makes sense to use them locally: for any small items that are inconvenient or impractical to store on the shelves: hats, gloves, scarves and other accessories.For stockings, socks and underwear, shallow drawers are used - about 12 cm high.
The most convenient models of boxes - with a transparent front wall. They allow you to see the contents of the box without pushing it.
When designing a box and calculating its width, be sure to consider the width of the hinges at the swing doors and the joints of the doors in the wardrobes. If the box is made to its full width to the maximum, it may simply not move out.
Handles for drawers in cramped wardrobe - frivolous waste of space. Even the most modest hinge will eat 1-2 cm of the cabinet, which you conquered from the room with such difficulty. Therefore, it is better to choose the boxes with grooves in the front panel.
Dividers and organizers in the drawers help prevent chaos. They can be built into the box, and can be sold separately from it. If you can not tolerate lingerie dumped in a pile - it is better to spend money on this additional option and with pleasure to lay out socks in the cells. Like solitaire.
Cabinet in the closet
Especially valuable and delicate things are stored behind additional doors. This design allows you to further protect the contents from dust and other adverse factors. Doors, as a rule, make glass, but can be made and deaf - so even more economical.
How to store shoes?
Special sloping shelves for shoes - a very convenient way to store shoes and shoes. Alas, these shelves are not too roomy. It is more rational to divide shoes into two parts: the one that is worn now and the one that needs to be kept - seasonal, well-dressed, for special cases. On the shelves leave the necessary, and put the rest in boxes and put them in the far corners of the cabinet.
Shelves for shoes are usually designed in the lower part of the cabinet. Their standard length is 80-100 cm.
If shoes and bags occupy an important role in your life, you can single out each item a separate place in the closet. Of course, in the living room or dining room such an exhibition would be inappropriate, but in the dressing room or hallway - completely.
How to store ties?
Hanging organizers are handy, but they take up a lot of space. Ergonomic, but expensive option - vertical sliding cabinets.
The most economical way - barbells or hooks on the cabinet door.
Fans of the order can put the ties in the drawer of the cabinet. Beautiful, economical and convenient to choose. But are you sure that every time you roll them in a roll and put them in place?
How to store jewelry?
Special equipment exists in cabinets for storing jewelry. If your closet is a part-time dressing table, think about how much and what kind of jewelry you will store here. Caskets with tangled chains are a thing of the past - now the jewelry is conveniently hung individually, so that it is easy to choose the right one. Small sliding trays with organizers will help expand rings, earrings and bracelets - comfortable and beautiful, as in the window.
If there is no space for a dressing table in the closet - engage the open end. Here you can hang beads and chains, hair accessories on hooks or even furniture handles. It is not necessary to close this wealth with a door.
Built-in ironing board
Rare, but very relevant design in the wardrobe. It will save you from folding-folding the ironing board and worries about where to attach it.
The most popular way to place a mirror in the closet is to make the doors mirror. You can close the cabinet mirrors fully or partially. It is ergonomic: the mirror does not take up additional space, and reflective surfaces add shine, light and volume to the interior.
If you are not a fan of large mirror surfaces in the interior (indeed, they do not add comfort) - make the interior surfaces of the doors mirror-like. True, this method is only suitable for swing structures. Two open doors with mirrors inside will provide a dressing table effect: you can see yourself from the front and the back.
The original solution is a retractable mirror. It allows you to see yourself in a different light than what is on the door. Such a mirror is convenient when the cabinet is in a narrow passage, and there is simply no place to look at yourself in the door.
Another advantage of the retractable mirror is that you don’t have to constantly rub off fingerprints (especially small ones).
This element of the built-in cabinet is useful if you have an uneven floor - which means that there may be problems with the doors mounted to the very bottom. Coupe doors will ride downhill, and on the mounds do not install a guide. Swing doors can also skew, in addition, between the door and the floor will remain ugly gap. The plinth allows to level the lower level of the cabinet, eliminating these problems.
In addition to light the cabinet - effectively, practical, but not necessarily.With the help of lighting, you can make more interesting the open shelves, more mysterious - the space behind the glass doors. In the end, on the lighted shelves easier to find the necessary.
It makes sense to mount the lighting inside the sections if you have open shelves and you want to get a beautiful decorative effect. Lighting hidden inside one shelf won't get to the other compartment. If you want to illuminate the contents of the cabinet, so as not to rummage through things in the dark - mount the lights in the visor. Do not forget to leave a gap between the visor and the upper border of the swing doors - so as not to cling. Transformer for built-in lights usually installed on the roof of the cabinet.
How to equip mezzanine?
The entresol is a separate space at the top of the cabinet. It’s not so easy to get there, so basically the mezzanine works like a closet: seasonal items and sports equipment, suitcases and dresses that “I wear when I lose weight” are removed. Inside the mezzanine, as a rule, do not make additional compartments and drawers. If the height of the cabinet allows, you should not do to the mezzanine and separate doors - this will only increase the cost of the cabinet.A separate compartment door will be especially expensive, so if you really have to, it’s better to make a swing or a folding door there.
Solid or fractional facade?
It is not necessary to hide the contents of sections behind large monolithic doors. Each section and unit can make its own separate doors. In this case drawers will become part of the facade. You will get quick access to things, and the front will look more interesting - unless, of course, you have aesthetically planned the design. Shelves and drawers hidden behind large doors can be located according to logic, not aesthetics. Well and, besides, integral facades will cost less.
Wardrobe with a secret
Behind the doors of the built-in closet you can arrange a whole secretary. Drawers for papers and letters, shelves for collections of coins and cigars, sliding table for a laptop. It is difficult to find such in standard versions, but to make it to order - easily.
If desired, the built-in wardrobe can have a built-in safe, and maybe a fridge for cosmetics or watch holders with a recharging function.
How can you cheapen built-in wardrobe?
Cheaper cabinets are, of course, a way of compromise, but not all of them will be painful for you.
So what can we refuse? If you are planning a wardrobe - replace the expensive aluminum system with a cheap steel one. It is, of course, less reliable, but if you do not look far ahead, it will come down. The service life of the aluminum system is 20 years, with the steel one - on average 5-7. Well, and steel - more noisy.
Another resource of savings is the number and design of the doors. If you replace narrow doors with fewer wide doors, it will be cheaper. In some places the door can be abandoned altogether - to make a combined facade with open shelves or to put swing doors instead of compartment doors.
Cheaper cabinet can be due to the materials used. Instead of expensive chipboard, which goes to the facade, use a thinner white plate inside. If you have planned the shelves correctly, their bearing capacity will not deteriorate.
Full drawers are convenient, but quite expensive. You can replace ball bearings with roller guides. Yes, the boxes will not slide so smoothly, and they can not be pulled out completely, but this is not always important. Or, refuse boxes in favor of regular shelves.
Even on shelf mounts can be saved.Instead of invisible eccentrics who are dragging shelves and sidewalls, use ordinary corners. Inconvenience from them, in fact, no - even the opposite: if you want, you can rearrange the shelves differently.
The only case where eccentrics cannot be abandoned is when the shelves serve as stiffening ribs that hold the cabinet structure, for example, in the extreme section with the non-built-in sidewall open.
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