How to make a box in the bathroom
When repairing plumbing often there is a need to close cast-iron sewer pipes, which look, to put it mildly, not in the best way. One of the most acceptable options is the installation of a box of metal profiles. The mounted frame can be gypsum plasterboard, plastic panels or gypsum-fiber sheets. The choice of the plating option depends on the finish of the plumbing. If the decision was made to use plastic panels, the frame is sewn by them immediately, directly on the metal profile. But as practice suggests, it is better to cover the box with a moisture-resistant plasterboard or a gypsum-fiber sheet. The advantages of materials from gypsum are obvious. On them, you can glue wallpaper, lay tile or mosaic. And you can finish with decorative plaster or just paint. It all depends on the thickness of the wallet and the imagination of the owner of the dwelling. In this article it is a question of installing a box for ceramic tiles. During installation, a moisture-resistant gypsum-fiber sheet (GVLV) was used.Moreover, it was mounted in two layers to increase rigidity. Tools required for installation:Retreat three centimeters from the marks made earlier and draw two vertical lines using the level .We measure the distance from the floor to the ceiling and cut the pieces of the guide profile of the appropriate length with metal shears. Using the lines drawn earlier, we fix the guide profiles to the wall using dowels 6 mm in diameter and screws 3.5x35 mm in size. You can use the dowel-nails of the same parameters. It’s better to drill holes in concrete walls with a perforator, and you can use a hammer drill for brick buildings.In some bathrooms, the partitions between the bathroom and toilet made of lightweight concrete. They are thin, only about 60 mm thick. It is necessary to carefully drill the holes, especially if the tile has already been laid on the other side. In order not to pierce such a wall, you must: • Turn off the percussion mode at the puncher and work without it, in the drilling mode. • At the end of the drill, make a stopper equal to the length of the screw, winding some insulating tape or wearing a drilled plug of wine. Next, you need to draw the box dimensions on the ceiling. Putting a square to the walls, we draw perpendicular lines on the ceiling with a pencil.The intersection point of these lines is the angle of the construction. We measure both distances from the walls using roulette.We first cut the guide profile into a total size. Then cut it at the point of inflection and fold it at an angle of 90 degrees, as shown in the figure.Then fix it to the ceiling with dowels and screws. You can do it easier and mount the angle of the box of two segments. Now we need to find the lower corner point of our design. Cut off the ceiling profile from floor to ceiling. We insert it into the upper corner profile and expose it with a level so that it stands strictly vertically in both planes.The outer corner of the profile will also be the lower corner point.Similarly to the upper corner profile we make the bottom corner. It will be shorter due to the presence of horizontal sewage.We fix it to the floor, as well as the upper structure.Install the cut ceiling profile first in the bottom corner and then in the upper . Then, with a drill with a 4 mm diameter drill, make holes in both profiles. We fix the whole structure with aluminum rivets.Next, add a few stiffeners to enhance the carrying capacity of the metal frame. It is necessary to ensure that when drilling holes, the profiles do not lead to the side. Stiffeners should be mounted at the joints of gypsum sheets.It's the turn of the plating. We take the sizes and we cut a gypsum-fiber leaf. The box can be sewn up and from pieces. The main thing that must be remembered when installing the second layer of GILV, the joints of the first sheet should not coincide with the second. Cutting a gypsum fiber sheet is slightly more complicated than a gypsum chipboard. First, cut the PVLV with a knife along the marked line.Then we enclose the profile or bar under the cut and break the sheet. The gypsum-fiber sheet is a rather fragile material and requires careful handling.Cut the cut pieces to the profile with self-tapping screws 3.5x25 mm. You can use self-tapping screws for PVL. But the profile is better to pre-drill, so it distorts less. You can use a special countersink with a built-in drill with a diameter of 2.8 or 3 mm. Then GVLV and the profile are punctured, and the sheet is additionally formed by sweat under the head of the screw.The second layer is mounted with longer screws of size 3 , 5x35 mm. The pitch with which the screws are screwed is about 150 mm. After the installation of GVLV, it is primed for better adhesion of the final coating with gypsum. If painting or wallpapering is meant, then the gypsum-fiber sheet is also plastered.
- Puncher and drill with a diameter of 6 mm.
- Metal shears.
- 4 mm drill bit.
- Countersink with integrated drill diameter 2, 8 or 3 mm.
- Building level or plumb.
- Riveter for aluminum exhaust rivets.
- Marker or pencil.
- Guide profile PN 27x28 - 3 pcs.
- PP 60x27 ceiling profile - 2 pcs.
- luminescent rivets with a diameter of 4 mm - 20 pcs.
- Dowels with a diameter of 6x40 mm or dowels-nails 6x40 mm - 20 pcs.
- Self-tapping screws 3,5x25 mm - 100 pieces
- Self-tapping screws 3,5x35 mm - 100 pieces
- Moisture-resistant gypsum-fiber sheet - 1 piece.
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